Enlarged pores are a common concern, particularly on the nose, cheeks, forehead, and chin. They can give the impression of an uneven skin texture and become more visible when the skin produces a lot of sebum or accumulates impurities.
Although it is impossible to make pores disappear permanently, a consistent routine can help keep them clean, regulate excess sebum, and improve skin firmness. Korean skincare combines gradual exfoliation, hydration, and targeted active ingredients to make their appearance less noticeable without stripping the skin.
What is the purpose of skin pores?
Pores are small openings located on the surface of the skin. They allow sebum produced by the sebaceous glands to reach the epidermis and help form the skin's protective film.
They are therefore perfectly natural and essential for the skin to function properly. Their apparent size varies depending on genetics, skin type, age, and skincare habits. Combination to oily skin often has more visible pores because their sebaceous glands are generally more active.
Can pores really be closed?
Contrary to popular belief, pores do not open and close like doors. It is therefore not possible to eliminate them or permanently change their size with a cosmetic product.
However, it is possible to reduce their appearance. When a pore is clogged with sebum, dead cells, or residue, it appears wider. Dehydrated skin, a lack of firmness, or an uneven texture can also make it more visible.
The goal of an anti-pore routine is therefore not to "close" the pores, but to gently unclog them, regulate sebum, maintain proper hydration, and gradually improve the overall appearance of the skin texture.
Why do pores become more visible?
Excess sebum production
When excess sebum is produced, it can accumulate in the pores and make them more apparent. This is common in the T-zone, which includes the forehead, nose, and chin.
The accumulation of dead cells
The skin's natural renewal process leads to the presence of dead cells on its surface. When they are not properly removed, they can mix with sebum and form plugs, promoting blackheads and blemishes.
Loss of firmness
Over time, the natural production of collagen and elastin decreases. The skin then provides less support for the contours of the pores, which can appear wider, particularly on the cheeks.
Dehydration
Dehydrated skin can produce more sebum to compensate for its lack of water. Its surface also becomes less supple and less even, which can visually accentuate the pores.
Sun exposure
Repeated exposure to UV rays contributes to the degradation of the skin's supporting fibers. Without regular sun protection, the skin texture can gradually become less firm and more uneven.
Which active ingredients are best for enlarged pores?
BHA or salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble exfoliant capable of acting in contact with sebum. It helps remove impurities accumulated in the pores and is particularly suitable for combination, oily, or blackhead-prone skin.
AHAs
AHAs, such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, primarily exfoliate the surface of the skin. They help smooth the skin texture and revive radiance. They should be introduced gradually to avoid irritation.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide helps balance sebum production, strengthen the skin barrier, and improve the appearance of uneven skin. It can be used in a daily routine when well tolerated.
Retinal
Retinal is a derivative of vitamin A. Used regularly and gradually, it promotes skin renewal and helps improve the texture and firmness of the skin. The pores can then appear less noticeable over time.
Moisturizing and soothing ingredients
Hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and Centella asiatica help preserve skin hydration and comfort. This step is essential, as a routine that is too drying can cause more sebum production and make the pores even more visible.
What Korean routine should you adopt for enlarged pores?
1. Cleanse without stripping
In the evening, double cleansing can be useful to remove sunscreen, makeup, and excess sebum. Start with a cleansing oil or balm, then use a gentle water-based cleanser.
In the morning, a light cleanse is generally sufficient. Skin that feels tight after washing probably needs a less aggressive formula. The goal is to clean the pores without altering the skin barrier.
2. Gradually exfoliate the pores
A gentle chemical exfoliation helps prevent the accumulation of sebum and dead cells. The Medicube Zero Pore Pad 2.0 combines AHAs and BHA to exfoliate the surface of the skin and help unclog the pores.
Start by using it once or twice a week in the evening, then adjust the frequency according to your skin's tolerance. Gently swipe the pad over the face without rubbing excessively and avoid the eye area.
Daily use is not essential. Over-exfoliation can weaken the skin barrier, cause redness, and increase sebum production as a reaction.
3. Apply a moisturizing and balancing serum
After toner, apply a serum or ampoule capable of moisturizing the skin without leaving a heavy finish. The Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Poremizing Fresh Ampoule combines Centella asiatica, panthenol, hyaluronic acid, and peptides.
Its light texture is particularly interesting for combination to oily skin seeking hydration and targeted care for the appearance of pores. It can be used morning and evening, including on non-exfoliation days.
4. Introduce retinal in the evening
To gradually work on texture and firmness, the KSECRET SEOUL 1988 Serum: Retinal Liposome 2% + Black Ginseng can be introduced into the evening routine. Its formula combines encapsulated retinal, black ginseng, and niacinamide.
Start by applying it once or twice a week to dry skin, then gradually increase if your skin tolerates it. Then apply a moisturizing cream.
To limit the risk of irritation, do not use the retinal serum on the same evening as the exfoliating pads. Alternate, for example, one evening of exfoliation, several evenings of hydrating recovery, then one evening of retinal.
Vitamin A derivatives are generally not recommended during pregnancy. In case of pregnancy, breastfeeding, or dermatological treatment, ask a healthcare professional for advice before using them.
5. Moisturize the skin
A light moisturizing cream helps retain water in the skin and protect its barrier. Oily skin should not skip this step: it can simply choose a gel or fluid texture, while dry skin can favor a more nourishing cream.
Well-hydrated skin appears more supple and plump, which helps make the skin texture visually more even.
6. Apply sun protection every morning
The use of AHA, BHA, or retinal must imperatively be accompanied by daily sun protection. Apply SPF 50 every morning, even when the sky is overcast, and reapply in case of prolonged exposure.
Sun protection also helps preserve collagen and skin firmness, two important elements to prevent pores from becoming more noticeable over time.
Example of a weekly anti-pore routine
For skin starting with active ingredients, the evening routine can be organized this way:
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Monday: cleanse, exfoliating pads, hydrating ampoule, and cream;
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Tuesday and Wednesday: hydrating and soothing routine only;
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Thursday: cleanse, retinal serum, and cream;
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Friday and Saturday: hydrating and soothing routine;
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Sunday: exfoliation or simple hydration depending on skin sensitivity.
This organization is just an example. Sensitive skin may space out the active ingredients further, while skin accustomed to them can eventually gradually increase their frequency.
Errors to avoid
To achieve a more even skin texture without causing irritation, avoid:
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vigorously rubbing the skin with physical scrubs;
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using exfoliating acids every day from the start;
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combining several exfoliants and a retinoid in the same evening;
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popping blackheads or squeezing pores;
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skipping moisturizing cream because the skin is oily;
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constantly changing products without giving them time to work;
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neglecting sun protection.
Blackhead strips can temporarily remove visible sebaceous filaments from the surface of the nose, but they do not prevent them from reappearing. A regular routine is more beneficial than an aggressive and occasional solution.
How long does it take to see an improvement?
Exfoliation can quickly provide a smoother skin sensation, but the lasting improvement of pore appearance requires consistency. Several weeks may be necessary to observe a more uniform skin texture and better sebum regulation.
Retinal treatments work gradually. It is therefore preferable to use them at a low frequency over time rather than too often for a few days, at the risk of irritating the skin.
Take photos in the same lighting conditions every four weeks. This method allows you to more objectively assess the evolution of the skin texture.
In summary
Pores cannot disappear or close permanently, but their appearance can be reduced thanks to a suitable routine. Gentle cleansing, gradual exfoliation, sufficient hydration, an active ingredient like retinal, and daily sun protection allow you to act on the main causes that make them visible.
The key is to avoid over-exfoliation and respect the skin's rhythm. By alternating active ingredients with evenings dedicated to hydration, it is possible to gradually achieve a smoother, more balanced, and visibly more even skin texture.