Lesser known just a few years ago, azelaic acid has now become an essential active ingredient for skin prone to blemishes, redness, and an uneven complexion. Versatile and generally better tolerated than some powerful exfoliants, it can address several concerns without requiring a complicated routine.
Korean brands often combine it with hydrating and soothing ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, Centella asiatica, or panthenol. This approach allows you to benefit from its properties while maintaining skin comfort. Discover how to choose your azelaic acid treatment and use it correctly.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid naturally found in small quantities in certain cereals. In cosmetics, it is primarily used to improve the appearance of blemishes, redness, post-acne marks, and an uneven complexion.
Despite its name, its action differs from that of AHAs and BHAs. It has a more moderate exfoliating effect and mainly works on the mechanisms responsible for blemishes and an uneven complexion. It is therefore an interesting option for people who want to target several problems at once, especially when classic exfoliants are difficult to tolerate.
What are the benefits of azelaic acid?
It helps reduce the appearance of blemishes
Azelaic acid helps limit the buildup of dead skin cells that can clog pores. Used regularly, it helps make the skin clearer and gradually reduces the appearance of pimples and comedones.
It may be suitable for oily skin, but also for combination or sensitive skin with occasional blemishes.
It soothes redness
This active ingredient is valued for its soothing properties. It can help reduce redness associated with blemishes and make the complexion look more even.
However, persistent redness or redness accompanied by a burning sensation may be related to a skin condition that requires a diagnosis. In this case, it is best to consult a dermatologist rather than use multiple products.
It gradually fades post-acne marks
After a pimple disappears, a red or brown mark may remain visible for several weeks. Azelaic acid helps regulate the mechanisms responsible for irregular pigment production and thus gradually evens out the complexion.
Sun protection remains essential: without daily SPF, marks are likely to darken and persist longer.
It improves skin texture
Thanks to its gradual effect on skin renewal and clogged pores, azelaic acid helps smooth out texture irregularities. The skin may appear softer, more even, and more radiant over time.
It helps balance oily skin
Azelaic acid can help regulate excess sebum. However, it should not be used to deliberately dry out the skin. Dehydrated skin may produce more sebum in response, which is why it is important to maintain a moisturizing step.
What skin types is it suitable for?
Azelaic acid may be suitable for:
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oily or combination skin prone to blemishes;
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skin with post-acne marks;
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uneven or dull complexions;
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sensitive skin that does not tolerate certain exfoliants well;
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skin prone to occasional redness;
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people looking for a versatile, gradual active ingredient.
However, tolerance depends on the concentration, the complete formula, and the frequency of use. Even an active ingredient known for being gentle should be introduced gradually.
Which azelaic acid treatment should you choose?
Convenient pads for quick application
The Anua Azelaic 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Pads combine azelaic acid with different forms of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, Centella asiatica, and ceramides. They allow you to apply a consistent amount of product after cleansing.
Our opinion on the texture: the pads are soaked in a hydrating aqueous essence that leaves a fresh sensation without a particularly rich finish. Their format is convenient for quickly swiping over the entire face or targeting specific areas.
For which skin types? They will be most suitable for normal, combination, dehydrated, or sensitive skin looking for a balanced formula. Very reactive skin should avoid rubbing the pad and instead leave it on the affected area for a few moments.
A lightweight ampoule for blemish-prone skin
The Skin1004 Madagascar Centella Azelaic Acid 10 Ampoule combines azelaic acid with complementary derivatives, Centella asiatica, panthenol, allantoin, beta-glucan, and hyaluronic acid. This combination targets blemishes and irregularities while maintaining a soothing effect.
Our opinion on the texture: its fluid, lightweight texture blends easily between toner and cream. It is particularly pleasant for people who do not like thick or sticky serums.
For which skin types? It is particularly suitable for combination to oily, sensitive, or blemish-prone skin. Dry skin can also use it, provided it is followed by a sufficiently nourishing cream.
A more intensive treatment for texture and marks
The Medicube Azelaic Acid Exosome Shot 2000 combines azelaic acid with niacinamide, betaaine salicylate, hydrating ingredients, and microspicules. It specifically targets blemishes, visible pores, post-acne marks, and texture irregularities.
Our opinion on the texture: the serum is lightweight, but the microspicules may cause a tingling sensation during application. It is therefore not the gentlest option in this selection, even though the texture itself remains easy to layer under a cream.
For which skin types? We recommend it mainly for combination to oily or resilient skin that is already accustomed to active ingredients. Very sensitive, irritated skin, or skin with a weakened skin barrier should opt for a simpler, more soothing formula.
There is no need to use these three products in the same routine. Choose one azelaic acid treatment based on your sensitivity, skin type, and preferred texture.
Yoonah's tip
Start by using your azelaic acid treatment two nights a week, then gradually increase the frequency if your skin remains comfortable. Do not combine multiple azelaic acid products in the same routine: one well-chosen formula is enough.
How to incorporate azelaic acid into your routine?
In the evening
To start, using it in the evening is often the easiest. After gentle cleansing, apply your azelaic acid product to clean, dry skin. Follow with a hydrating serum if necessary, then a cream suited to your skin type.
The order can be summarized as follows:
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cleansing oil or balm if you wear makeup or waterproof sunscreen;
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gentle water-based cleanser;
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optional hydrating toner;
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azelaic acid treatment;
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moisturizing cream.
If your skin is sensitive, you can apply a thin layer of cream before and after the active treatment. This method helps limit direct contact and makes the introduction more gradual.
In the morning
Azelaic acid can also be used in the morning when well tolerated. It should then be followed by a moisturizing cream and broad-spectrum sunscreen.
In practice, there is no need to apply it morning and evening from the start. Regular use at a low frequency is better than intensive application that causes redness and discomfort.
What ingredients can it be combined with?
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid complements azelaic acid very well. It helps maintain hydration and reduce the dryness that may appear during the first few uses.
Centella asiatica and panthenol
These soothing active ingredients are particularly useful for maintaining skin comfort. They can be present directly in the formula or applied in a complementary serum.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide can enhance the effect on sebum, marks, and complexion uniformity. The two active ingredients are compatible, but a very sensitive person may start by using them separately to assess their tolerance.
Retinal, retinol, and exfoliating acids
It is possible to find these active ingredients in the same overall routine, but layering them from the start increases the risk of irritation. To start, use azelaic acid one night and the retinoid or exfoliant another night.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C and azelaic acid can both target complexion irregularities. Skin accustomed to active ingredients can sometimes tolerate them together, but it is still simpler to use vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid in the evening.
How often should it be used?
Start with one to two applications per week. If no significant discomfort appears, gradually move to using it every other night. Some skin may then be able to use it daily, while others will achieve good results with only three applications per week.
Reduce the frequency if you notice persistent redness, itching, a burning sensation, or significant flaking. A mild and temporary sensation may occur at the beginning, but the product should not cause lasting discomfort.
What mistakes should be avoided?
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using several azelaic acid treatments simultaneously;
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starting directly with morning and evening application;
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combining azelaic acid, retinoids, and exfoliants from the start;
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applying the product to already irritated skin;
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neglecting moisturizing cream;
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forgetting sunscreen;
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changing products after only a few days;
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rubbing the skin with pads or abrasive exfoliants.
How long does it take to see results?
Results are gradual. The skin may appear more balanced and comfortable after a few weeks, but post-acne marks and complexion irregularities generally require greater consistency.
Monitor the progress over several weeks by taking photos in the same lighting conditions. This method is more reliable than comparing the appearance of the skin daily.
If blemishes are numerous, painful, or leave scars, a cosmetic treatment is not a substitute for a dermatological consultation.
In summary
Azelaic acid is a versatile active ingredient that helps improve the appearance of blemishes, redness, post-acne marks, and skin texture. It may be suitable for different skin types, provided you choose a suitable formula and introduce it gradually.
The pads offer quick and hydrating use, the lightweight ampoule is particularly suitable for combination to oily skin, while a serum containing microspicules is more suited to skin already accustomed to active ingredients. Regardless of the product chosen, consistency, hydration, and sun protection remain the essential elements of an effective routine.